"Have Fun Storming the Castle"

From the remote roadway of California’s Highway 1 it is barely visible, a Mission looking house on a hill nestled on the back of what appears to be ranch land.  It is always a welcome sight to southbound travelers coming off of the three hour long drive through Big Sur from Carmel as it signals the end of the twisting, sometimes treacherous road through the forest of the central coast; a landmark that says Highway 46 and its 15 minute trip to the well traveled Highway 101 or perhaps a stop in the quaint, upscale village of Cambria where a warm dinner and a soft bed is just a short distance away.

To those who choose it as their destination, it is small from the highway. The driveway is modest, the low gate says, simply: “Hearst Castle.”

The parking is free and leads directly to the Visitors Center where the requisite pictures and legends of the park, ticket windows, a selections of tours and their descriptions and, of course, the gift shop are housed. But these are no ordinary park tours; this is no ordinary park.  One is immediately struck by the friendliness and knowledge of the park staff, they are beyond helpful. They obviously love this place, and they enjoy working here. Tour A is recommended for the first time visitor, it touches on a bit of everything the house has to offer.

A comfortable theater at the center is an excellent starting point and well worth the 40 minute film: “Hearst Castle: Building The Dream.” A five story tall screen shows this original film which familiarizes the neophyte with not only William Randolph Hearst and his sensational life but how it came to be. The Hearst family history is much more than newspapers, and the family is a firm and integral part of Central and Northern California.

From there, one boards the bus that will take you on the 15 minute ride up “The Enchanted Hill” while a pre-recorded sightseeing spiel backed by music of the '30s and '40s gives a bit more information about where you are. Don’t be surprised if the driver switches off the recording to point out something unusual…perhaps the zebras are out, or a short stop must be made to allow a party of peacocks to cross. William Randolph Hearst kept a zoo on the property, and many of the descendants of those animals continue to roam the vast lands.

A word to the wise, yes, there ARE Zebras on the property. Consider your wardrobe before boarding the bus.

 If your tour is early morning, or in the three seasons other than summer, you may find yourself breaking out of the low fog as you approach the Castle. Your guides are waiting for you, several guides per bus, each taking a group of 8-12 visitors.  The white house on the hill that was your destination suddenly towers above you, surrounded by its magnificent gardens, Grecian pools, twin towers and three guesthouses, each one large enough to house a family of six.

Your tour will take an hour or more, depending on your choice. The guides have an obvious affection for the place, they know their history, the land, the family and the gossip. I've never heard a question asked they couldn't answer and nothing is taboo. Much is known of Mr. Hearst, Mrs. Hearst and Marion Davies. They hold parties here on occasion and are happy to talk about them.  Yes, they have been in the pools and no, the pools are not heated.

The kitchen faucets.

We prowl everywhere, through the kitchens, the bedrooms, the tennis courts, the pools, from the large outdoor pool and down to the indoor Roman pool, location of many a late night swim. 

The indoor pool looking toward the diving platform

We hear of lovers' trysts in secluded corners, as this was a Hollywood playground away from the prying eyes of the press and their cameras, a place where the most public persons could relax and act like the rest of us. The docents and staff like this place, they are full of stories, invariably interesting, personal stories of the man who built this place and the people who enjoyed it's hospitality.

It's certainly not the most convenient of locations, it's a trip that must be made by road, at least once one leaves Paso Robles, about 20 miles east.  If you live in Los Angeles or San Francisco and like to drive it can be done as a day trip, I've done it more than once. But there are any number of hotels in San Simeon and Cambria, from cozy bed and breakfast inns or romantic fireplace cottages on Moonstone Beach to simple clean family friendly motels and spending a night, or two will be well worth the trip. Try and get one of the last tours of the day, the sunset alone will make you glad you came.

 The house remains alive, the table is set for dinner, complete with ketchup bottles marching down the center. Clothing hangs in closets, the balls are racked up on the pool table. During the Christmas season the Castle is draped in its holiday finery, a near carbon copy of the pictures that exist from the Castle's heyday. If you do overnight, go to the Visitors Center early in the day and book the special evening tour. The house is warm and inviting, glowing with light and decorations. Christmas trees shine in every room and docents dressed as guests of the '20s and '30s wander the halls, play pool and chat with guests in an evening that will make you forget, for a few hours, what decade you are actually living in. 

From the smallest detail to the largest pool, the place fires the imagination and remains a curiosity and a rare look back at a time and a California past. It is opulent and personal all at the same time. I have been there many times and taken each and every tour and never fail to discover something different and beautiful.